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Stockholm: wonderful ship hostels

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victory_hotel_stockholm_sweden_0.jpg By Jennifer Merin
July 29, 2010


Stockholm, SE — Sweden’s beautiful capital city covers 14 small islands linked by a lace-like network of handsome bridges spanning waterways so clean and fresh you can fish in them.

Stockholm’s islands lie between the scenic Baltic Sea to the east, and Lake Malaren to the west. Many public ferries ply routes between them and thousands of personal pleasure craft are moored at their shores.

It’s hardly surprising that nautical themes prevail in the décor of several Stockholm hostels.

Among the most exclusive is the charming Victory Hotel, named for the famous flagship of British naval hero Lord Horatio Nelson. The 48-room hotel is at Lilla Nygatan 5, in Stockholm’s historic Gamla Stan (Old Town). It occupies to adjoining 17th-century townhouses whose foundations date back to the 13-th century.

An original letter from Lord Nelson to his beloved Lady Emma Hamilton, dated 1801, is prominently displayed in the lobby. The admiral’s words, hastily scrawled in now-faded brown ink, confess to his being “more than half sea sick” and spell out his tender feeling for the lady.

This and other nautical memorabilia give the Victory Hotel a marine ambience. The hotel was established in 1987 by Gunnar Bengtsson. Now it accommodates tourists and other travelers while permanently housing much of the owner’s personal collection of Nelsoniana and other nautical antiques of all descriptions. Shiny glass-and-brass cases in the lobby, corridors and stairways display antique dolls in seamen’s’ dress, as well as pipes and humidors, all sorts of fascinating nautical instruments, telescopes, clocks, flags, wooden carvings and scrimshaw, and other sea-worthy artifacts and collectibles.

Rooms are named for Swedish seamen who captained sailing ships from the mid-1800s through the first half of the 20th century. Captains’ portraits are always on display outside their bedrooms, along with paintings of their beautiful ships.

Room 401, for example, is a suite-like domain named for Kapten John Aberg (1874-1946). The esteemed captain is depicted as a misty-eyed man wearing a high collar and bowler hat. The room has two single beds, a convertible sofa, desk and antique chest with hand painted floral motifs.

Room 402, nest door, the modest cabin-size room that’s right next door, is associated with Kapten Frans G. Sandstrom (1841-1936), a gent with a strong profile and very impressive goatee. Wall decorations include an original newspaper clip announcing the esteemed captain’s 75th birthday and listing his many accomplishments. There’s also a model of Kapten Sandstrom’s ship, and a dining room menu from a mid-1800s passenger ship.

The most luxurious accommodations are in Room 109, named for Kapten A.G. Johansson, a stern-faced captain who presided at the helm of the Jacob of Stockholm. This is a spacious two-room suite, featuring high ceilings with hand painted beams and antique furniture that includes a rare 19th century square piano. Not that the suite isn’t outfitted with all the latest comforts and conveniences, too. It also features a Jacuzzi and a foot massager.

Gunnar Bengtsson, whose skills as a collector have been recognized with many awards, searched the historic archives and antique shops all along the coast of Sweden to assemble his remarkable cache of captains’ portraits and their other personal memorabilia. You can’t help admiring his tenacity and dedication.

Hotel employees are prepared to offer more lore about each of the captains, and to tell the stories about specific antiques. And, whenever possible, the rooms are assigned to guests who bear the same surnames as the captains for which the rooms are named. It’s a lovely touch.

Room rates begin at about $150 per night for a single room, including breakfast. There are also various packages available.

If the Victory Hotel is full, you may be able to get accommodations at it’s sister hotels, the Lady Hamilton (Storkyrkobrinken 5) or the Lord Nelson (Västerlånggatan 22). These establishments, owned by Gunnar Bengtsson under the “Collector’s Hotels” banner, are also located in charming Gamla Stan, and are furnished with equally impressive arrays of nautical antiques, but have slightly lower room rates. You can navigate your way to more information about the three properties and make reservations for all at Collector’s Hotels.

If you prefer to overnight on the water, you can bunk aboard the M. M. Malardrottingen (Queen of Lake Malaren), a boat-hotel which is permanently moored at Riddarholmen (Knight’s Island), near Gamla Stan. The ‘boatel’ is a luxury 240-foot yacht that was built in 1924, and, with sailing under the name “Vanadis,” once belonged to heiress Barbara Hutton.

The M. M. Malardrottningen has 60 small but comfortable and well-appointed cabins aboard, including single and doubles, and the luxurious owner‘s suite -- which is particularly popular with honeymooners.

All the cabins have private heads (bathrooms), as well as phones, TVs and other standard conveniences. Rates, starting at about $120 per night for a single, including breakfast, depend on the size and location of the cabin. Upper deck level rooms with views of the water are pricier than lower level cabins, some of which have bunk beds.

Other ’boatels’ that are permanently moored at Sodermalm, a bit further from Gamla Stan, are a little bit less expensive that M. M. Malardrottningen, but you have to take the underground to get to the center of town.

Another very popular alternative for overnighting on board a ship is the STF Youth Hostel af Chapman, a 19th century tall ship that’s permanently moored at Skeppsholmen (Ship‘s Island), overlooking Gamla Stan and the Royal Palace. The ship was built in 1888, and it has recently been fully restored from stem to stern. Af Chapman is one of the most unusual and popular youth hostels in the world. It offers guests -- who may range in age from parent-accompanied kids to senior citizens -- in bunk beds, and provides a measure of adventure to its accommodations. It’s always completely booked, so you really must make reservations well in advance of your intended visit.

If you can’t get a bunk aboard the af Chapman, but want to soak up some of the ambience, you may be able to board in the ship’s reception building, located in a beautiful yellow 19th century edifice that’s right next to the boat. This historic building served during the 18th century as a storage space for firewood for the royal castle. You can overnight at af Chapman for as little as $35. It‘s a great stay with a very affordable price tag.

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